The 24 pin connector does not have symmetrical connections. The spec is a long read, but interesting. One room away and that AC 1200 router is only actually delivering 200Mbits, or for that matter the 20 closest neighbors APs/wireless phones/airport radar/etc are messing up the spectrum. Plus, with the advent of reasonable speed internet accesses (thanks google!) the WiFi is frequently the bottleneck. Even so, I still run wires to my home theater devices because I don't have to worry about dropouts in the middle of streaming a bluray, or more importantly the random driver/etc bugs that seem far more frequent on wifi than boring old ethernet. The latency, throughput and most importantly the reliability of a decent wired network is still far superior to wifi, and I have a far cleaner/stronger wifi system than the vast majority of wifi networks I've seen. I will assure you that my desktop PC's, which are connected via 10GbaseT have ~30x faster access to said NAS than the small business class AC WIFI AP's I use. I run backups/bluray movies/etc between my NAS and assorted devices. Superior if your a laptop user sitting on the back deck. I think the ports on devices are more rigorous about this, at least, I think all my USB 3 ports are blue. My quick rummage of cables suggests this is not necessarily known to cable manufacturers. The plastic inside the connector is white for 1.x, black or white for 2.0, blue for 3.0, and yellow or red for sleep/charge. At least, my quick rummage of cables didn't find any. The only visible change on the connectors was a tiny + sign in the three branched USB tree molded on the end of the cable, which was apparently so useless to users that no one bothered to put them on. When they went from USB 1.0 at 11mbps to USB 2.0 at 480mpbs they had to change the shielding. USB has already had this problem for 16 years. (I have installed or used all of these conditions except for token ring.)
I had an office where one RJ45 went to an FM antenna above the steel roof, you really are not supposed to do that. Is it a phone, a token ring, or an Ethernet? Cat 3, Cat 5, Cat 6? Did the installer unwrap the pairs too far? Are there crossed pairs? Does it have two pair or four (in days of old it was common to make single Cat 5 wire serve two devices since they only used two pairs)? Does it have a DC voltage supplied between some of the pairs? What voltage, what current capacity, which polarity, which pairs? What speed is the ethernet switch port? Maybe it is a VGA extender or an HDMI extender. We survived having RJ45 jacks (which I just learned are not really RJ45 jacks, but 8P8C connectors) in walls.
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